Muchas personas pueden hablarnos del pasado pero pocas pueden explicarnos el presente o anticiparnos el futuro. Hussein Chalayan, diseñador de moda visionario, egresado de Central St. Martins, es una de ellas. Su intrigante mirada del futuro cruza diseño con antropología y tecnología, en un mix que el mismo describe como producto de su vida entre su país natal, Chipre, y Londres, donde reside y diseña. Sus colecciones son proyectos artísticos de moda, con ideas tan globales y totalmente siglo XXI como identidad cultural o las implicancias de la tecnología. El concepto de una de sus últimas colecciones, Inertia, explora la velocidad en nuestras vidas: unos vestidos moldeados en látex simulan estar detenidos en movimiento, y los cuerpos parecen estar atrapados en el instante de un choque. Y esa fue la imagen que invitó a la exhibición “From fashion and back”, en Design Museum, Londres. Una exhibición tan diseñada como sus colecciones: en movimiento pero en silencio, con un leve ruido blanco (suave fondo de compresores de aire) empujaban al visitante en la atmósfera de una cápsula de tiempo. Una recorrida catalogada con tipografía gigante en cada sala, maniquíes hiperrealistas, muchísmas pantallas de video y por supuesto, sus trajes mecanizados. En sus colecciones más famosas, el movimiento es central: vestidos que se transforman mecánicamente, se despliegan, se desarman o iluminan. Su desfile “One Hundred and Eleven”, finalizó con un vestido plegable dentro de un tocado y desnudó a la modelo en pasarela. En esa ocasión, hubo una participación argentina: Milagros Schmoll. Con la colección “Afterwords” presentó una noción de arquitectura portable, en la que muebles se transforman literalmente en trajes. El más emblemático es una mesa, que se despliega formando un vestido cónico. El más impactante es su vestido iluminado por 16.500 LEDs combinados con cristales Swaroski, centelleando simultáneamente en la colección “Airborne”. Es recomendadísimo visitar su sitio web para ver los videos de sus desfiles. Hussein Chalayan, como artista integral, también ha dirigido cortometrajes. El film “The Absent Presence” (que incluye a Tilda Swinton) explora la paranoia alrededor del terrorismo. El futurista “Place To Passage” relata un viaje imaginario que condensa sus imágenes sobre desplazamiento y soledad, realizado con digitalización y dibujo 3D.Actualmente, Chalayan tiene un estudio en el este de Londres, presenta sus colecciones en París y el pasado febrero, se sumó a Puma como Creative Director para todos sus productos, que se esperan (renovadores) este año.
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