Moda: Gaba Esquivel

Estudió en Paris, trabajo con Karl Lagerfeld, creó su marca y conquisto New York en pocos dias. Fue tapa de las revista de moda más top de Estados Unidos y se hizo adorar por el jet set mas fashion del primer mundo. Hoy, vida de campo en Uruguay y su comeback inminente.

TEXTO: Astrid Perkins
FOTO: Tef Iselli

Hoy, viviendo sobre el mar, con Simón, su hijo de 4, perros, gatos, caballos y un aire limpio, Gaba prepara su regreso al mundo de la moda con más fuerza que nunca. Una argentina que, esté donde esté, es puro vértigo.

¿Cómo empezaste en el mundo de la moda?
Inesperadamente. Viví en Corrientes hasta los 15, así que no puedo decir que mis referentes de moda eran urbanos y glamorosos. Pero hoy me doy cuenta que todos ellos estaban en lo cotidiano, en la tradición del campo correntino, sus tientos y platería y, sobre todo, su belleza brutal, que mi madre lo transformaba en femenino y sofisticado. Ella tenia una belleza indígena y lo sabia explotar, se hacia admirar. Me ha servido de inspiración hasta hoy.

¿Fue tu primera opción en la vida?
Primero me equivoqué de camino. ¿Pero quien no se equivoca a los 17? Hice tres años de arquitectura. Por suerte trabajaba al mismo tiempo asistiendo a Cristina Sainan, directora de GRAFA, y ahí se fue develando que mi busqueda era otra. Ella era súper francesa y me llenó de ganas de ir a Paris, donde vivía una de mis hermanas. Me fui en el 94 a Studio Berçot. Entré sin saber que eran una elite de moda. Ahí sufrí como loca y pague un duro derecho de piso. Pero pronto pasé a ser la protegida de Madame Rucki , directora de Berçot y se convirtió en un placer. Despues aprendí mucho más con mis pasos por Martíne Sitbon, Guy Laroche, Chanel y Balmain con Gilles Dufour.

¿Y cómo lanzaste tu marca, Vasseur Esquivel?
Con mi socio Thomas Vasseur hicimos Studio Berçot juntos. Después ambos hicimos diversos caminos. El venia de trabajar con Jean Paul Gaultier y Azzedine Alaia. Nos reencontramos y decidimos hacer algo juntos lejos de la presión de París. Llevé telas de Paris e Italia a Buenos Aires, hicimos un scouting en la casa de mi padre y nació nuestra primer colección coincidiendo con el crash del gobierno de De la Rúa. Nuestro proyecto de vender en Buenos Aires se esfumaba. Llevamos la colección a New York. Ahí fuimos rechazados, no entendían nada, dúo franco-argentino, trabajando en Buenos Aires con telas europeas, mucha info… Poco creíble. El tiempo de venta de colecciones estaba terminado al igual que nuestro budget para seguir girando en New York.

No quedaban muchas opciones.
Tal cual. Así que nos fuimos a comer a Smith, el restaurant mas top de la moda en New York a gastarnos los últimos dólares que nos quedaban. Y fue la salvación. Al entrar vimos que Karl Ruttenstein (pope-ícono de la moda y descubridor de muchos diseñadores top) estaba en la mesa de al lado. Reunimos coraje motivados por el mozo marroquí que entendía nuestra conversión y le enviamos una nota con nuestra tarjeta. Se puso los anteojos y nos hizo llamar, quedó impresionado por nuestro back y quiso ver la colección al día siguiente y quedo prendado con ella. Llamó a todas las directoras de moda de Vogue , W , Bazaar y a otros stores como Barney’s, Jeffrey’s, Bloomingdale’s, Ikram, entre otros. Anna Wintour en persona fue la primera en ver nuestro trabajo y apoyarnos para estar en la Fashion Week, en calendario oficial y darnos paginas en Vogue. Fuimos tapa de WWD y un non stop de publicaciones. Volvimos a Buenos Aires a fabricar los pedidos, fuimos creciendo y nos fuimos mudando, porque todo quedaba chico. Terminamos con 42 empleados y viajando non stop Buenos Aires-New York. Fue muy vertiginoso.

¿Cómo te sentías circulando en la elite de la moda mundial?
Tuve dos periodos bien diferentes. Como estudiante en Berçot y haciendo pasantías, todo me parecía increíble. Y por supuesto, superaba mis sueños y fantasías. Aunque se empieza desde muy abajo, haciendo fotocopias, cafés, paseando el perro de la editora de Elle mientras visitaba a Lagerfeld… Y cada tanto te pedían una opinión y te sentías realizada. Más tarde tus opiniones se tomaban mas en cuenta y ya te compartian sus vidas, y ahí llegaba tu primer contrato por tiempo indeterminado. Eso era llegar al cielo. Pero el período de Vasseur Esquivel y el reconocimiento que tuvimos en New York y de nuestros pares fue testimonio de que el sueño americano no esta muerto.

Te bajaste de los Manolo Blahnik para irte a vivir a Oceania del Polonio en Uruguay y criar un hijo.
Fue todo muy natural, nos dejamos fluir y casi sin pensarlo mucho. Cuando nació Simón vino esa revolución que despierta la maternidad, que te das cuenta que existen otros mundos dentro tuyo, muy confortables y que merecen su tiempo. Así que con Zappa, mi marido, nos dimos este tiempo. Nos hicimos mas nómades. Cambié Manolos y Louboutin por botas hechas por artesanos en el pueblo de Castillos, y con mucho placer. Después de haber girado por el mundo, vivo gran parte del año en Oceanía, lugar mágico, en un rancho de madera súper charming entre el monte, las dunas y el mar. Ahora estoy preparando una línea de accesorios que espero dar a luz en marzo de 2011. Mientras, colaboro con Zappa en sus proyectos turísticos y en el restó El Huesoh donde él cocina. Nuestro hijo de 4 años va a la Escuela Rural y convive con 5 perros, 4 gatos, pájaros y caballos. Sin dudas acá me sirvieron esos tres años de arquitectura y mi vida de campo antes de descubrir la ciudad

¿Qué es lo mejor de los dos mundos, entonces?
Poder lograr hacer un todo entre los dos.
La naturaleza, la familia, lejos de alejarme, me han ayudado a estar más aguda, más reflexiva, y más en contacto que nunca con el mundo de la moda, un mundo del cual no se escapa fácilmente . Estoy siempre online y siempre actualizada. Vivimos en el monte, pero Zappa siempre parece salido del último Uommo Vogue y Simoncito tiene pasion por el ballet.

¿Y lo peor?
Ya pasó. Este año perdimos un bebé a los 5 meses de embarazo. Fue durísimo, pero salimos fortalecidos. Así que se viene lo mejor.

¿Cómo sigue el 2010 y el 2011?
Nos estamos yendo a Estados Unidos por unos meses. Agosto de vacaciones y después mix de business y placer.

¿Y en primavera?
En septiembre no me pierdo la Fashion Week en New York, un placer. Todas las windows del invierno que viene, un mix caotico de info al mismo tiempo que nos produce un éxtasis total a todos los bulímicos de la moda.

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