Florencia Kozuch: universitaria on fire

Hoy, es una de las estudiantes más prometedoras de Central Saint Martins, academia en London donde, desde Hussein Chalayan a John Galliano, estudiaron muchos que hicieron mucha diferencia. Tras un breakthrough en el último show Ones To Watch, excitó comparaciones con Nicolas Ghèsquiere en Balenciaga y la revista Dazed & Confused dijo cosas divinas sobre ella. Mucho muy interesting.

¿Cómo aterrizaste en Saint Martins?
Digamos que fui trabajando en mi plan durante varios años. Me enteré de la existencia de Saint Martins a los 14, por una revista. Dos años mas tarde nos mudamos a Barcelona. me quedaba por cursar 4to y 5to Año, asi que mientras terminaba el secundario me apunté en el Instituto Catalán de la Moda donde por las tardes aprendía a cortar, coser y dibujar. Al terminar la secundaria, me postulé, vine a Londres para una entrevista y me ofrecieron una plaza. Esto fue en julio y para septiembre ya me habia mudado. Primero a hacer un foundation course, digamos que es como un CBC en arte y diseño, y al año empecé el curso.

¿Cómo fue tu primer cuatrimestre de cursada, o semestre? ¿Qué cosas esperabas? ¿Qué cosas absorbiste?
Para mí estar en Londres ya era increíble. Mis primeros meses fueron intensos, me pasaba todo el día en la universidad. teniamos entregas cada jueves y era como que no me alcanzaba la semana. Aparte, veía a mis compañeros y pensaba: tengo que hacer mas, dibujar mejor, ir mas a la biblioteca… Sólo quería aprender, miraba todo: qué usaba la gente, mis compañeros, qué vendian las tiendas, dónde se salía, qué había en los museos. Era una especie de esponja.

Influencias, gustos, conceptos y nociones que terminan en tu ropa. ¿Qué hace a Flor Kozuch?
Yo siempre digo que desde que empece a dibujar vengo trabajando en el mismo projecto. Me interesa la estructura de las cosas, los volúmenes que crean nuevas siluetas. los materiales y texturas poco convencionales. lo que más me inspira es la música, cada colección viene con una banda sonora especifica. Por ejempo con la coleccion de Selknam, o onas, estaba escuchando Spacemen3, My Bloody Valentine y ese fue el resultado. Hoy mas que nada miro ropa y objetos, cómo están cortados, qué materiales se usan, con qué se mezclan. También miro cómo otros emplean los colores y los estampados y de ahí empiezo con mi investigacion.

Volver para trabajar en Argentina: ¿es una opción?
De momento tengo todo organizado en Londres, pero no descarto hacer parte de mi actividad en Argentina.

La colección que mostraste en Ones To Watch fue increíble.
Para esa colección mi idea era usar materiales estrictamente de la fauna autóctona argentina. Al final terminé trabajando con Cimanes de Formosa, porque amo los crocos, y erizos de mar que son muy punk por su inusual textura. También usé lana sin procesar de la Patagonia y mohair para nuestros tejidos y alpaca y asta para los accesorios hechos a mano.

¿Y la nueva que estás armando?
Por ahora es rara y femenina, un poco florida, un poco rock n’ roll, como si a unos vestidos de cocktail los hubiese agarrado un gato.

Saint Martins, ¿en qué te redirecciona la cabeza?
Saint martins es un lugar excéntrico, donde se te exige al máximo, ellos están seguros del potencial de sus alumnos y uno vive con una constante presión por alcanzar un objetivo que parece imposibe. A la larga creo que eso es lo que te lleva a superarte y para mí ese es su secreto y su atractivo.

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